:root{--brown:#7a4b22;--dark:#3b2412;--tan:#d9a35b;--cream:#fbf6ee;--paper:#fff;--line:#eadcc6;--ink:#2a1f17;--muted:#77685a;--green:#2f7a4a;--amber:#a86a00}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;font:16px/1.6 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;color:var(--ink);background:var(--cream)}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:Fraunces,Georgia,serif;color:var(--dark);line-height:1.2;margin:1.6rem 0 .6rem}h1{font-size:clamp(1.8rem,5vw,2.7rem);margin-top:.6rem}h2{font-size:1.45rem}h3{font-size:1.1rem;margin:.2rem 0}
a{color:var(--brown)}a:hover{color:var(--dark)}.wrap{max-width:1080px;margin:auto;padding:0 1rem}
header.site{background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:sticky;top:0;z-index:1000}.bar{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:60px}
.logo{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.5rem;font:700 1.35rem Fraunces,serif;color:var(--dark);text-decoration:none}.logo .lt span{color:var(--tan)}
nav a{margin-left:1rem;text-decoration:none;font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem}
.hero{display:grid;gap:1rem;align-items:center;background:linear-gradient(135deg,#f3e4cc,#fbf6ee);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;padding:1.5rem;margin:1.2rem 0}
.hero-art{display:none;width:100%;height:auto}.eyebrow{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em;font-size:.75rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--brown);margin:0}
.lead{font-size:1.05rem;color:#4a3b2f}.meta,.muted{color:var(--muted);font-size:.9rem}
.picker{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.5rem;background:var(--paper);padding:.5rem;border-radius:14px;box-shadow:0 6px 20px #7a4b2222;margin-top:1rem}
.picker select,.picker button{font:inherit;padding:.8rem 1rem;border-radius:10px;border:1px solid var(--line);min-height:48px}
.picker select{background:var(--paper);flex:1}.picker button,.btn{background:var(--brown);color:#fff;border:0;font-weight:600;cursor:pointer}.picker button:hover,.btn:hover{background:var(--dark);color:#fff}
.btn{display:inline-block;padding:.5rem .9rem;border-radius:8px;text-decoration:none;font-size:.9rem}
.sr{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0)}
.callout{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:1rem;background:var(--dark);color:#f6ecd9;border-radius:16px;padding:1rem 1.2rem;text-decoration:none}.callout b{color:#fff}.callout:hover{color:#fff;background:#4a2c14}.arrow{margin-left:auto;font-size:1.5rem;color:var(--tan)}
.card{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;box-shadow:0 1px 3px #3b241210}
.cities{list-style:none;padding:0;display:grid;gap:.8rem}.city-card{display:flex;gap:.8rem;align-items:flex-start;padding:1rem;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);transition:.15s}.city-card:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);border-color:var(--tan)}.city-card b{display:block;font-family:Fraunces,serif;color:var(--dark)}.city-card small{color:var(--muted)}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.4rem}.chip{display:inline-block;background:#f3e4cc;color:var(--dark);border-radius:999px;padding:.15rem .65rem;font-size:.82rem;text-decoration:none}.chip.svc{background:#efe9df}.chips.big .chip{padding:.5rem 1rem;font-size:.95rem;border:1px solid var(--line)}.chips.big .chip:hover{background:var(--tan)}
.crumbs{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:1rem}
.map{height:320px;border-radius:14px;border:1px solid var(--line);margin:1rem 0;z-index:0}
.shops{display:grid;gap:1rem}.shop{padding:1.1rem}.shop-head{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-start}.shop h2{margin:0;font-size:1.25rem}
.badges{display:flex;gap:.35rem;flex-wrap:wrap}.badge{font-size:.75rem;font-weight:600;padding:.2rem .6rem;border-radius:999px;white-space:nowrap}.st-open{background:#e3f2e8;color:var(--green)}.st-unverified{background:#fdecd2;color:var(--amber)}.st-unknown{background:#eee;color:#555}.badge.mail{background:var(--dark);color:#f6ecd9}
.note{background:#fff4d6;border-left:4px solid var(--tan);padding:.4rem .7rem;border-radius:6px;font-size:.92rem}
dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:5.5rem 1fr;gap:.2rem .6rem;margin:.8rem 0;font-size:.95rem}dt{font-weight:600;color:var(--muted)}dd{margin:0;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.tags{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.35rem;align-items:center;margin:.4rem 0}.lbl{font-size:.78rem;font-weight:600;color:var(--muted);width:5.5rem}
details{margin:.6rem 0;font-size:.92rem}summary{cursor:pointer;color:var(--brown);font-weight:500}.src{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--muted);margin:.4rem 0 0}
.hint{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted)}.tbl{overflow-x:auto;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;background:var(--paper);-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch}
.cmp{border-collapse:collapse;font-size:.88rem;min-width:900px;width:100%}.cmp th{background:var(--dark);color:#f6ecd9;text-align:left;padding:.7rem;position:sticky;top:0}.cmp td{padding:.7rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}.cmp tr:nth-child(even) td{background:#fcf8f1}.cmp td:first-child{position:sticky;left:0;background:inherit;min-width:150px}.cmp tbody tr td:first-child{background:var(--paper)}
.bestfor{display:grid;gap:1rem}.bf{padding:1rem}.bf p{margin:.3rem 0}
.aff{border:2px dashed var(--tan);border-radius:12px;padding:1rem;margin:1.5rem 0;color:var(--muted);background:#fffaf2}
footer.site{background:var(--dark);color:#e9dcc7;font-size:.85rem;margin-top:3rem;padding:1.5rem 0}footer a{color:var(--tan)}
@media(min-width:640px){.picker{flex-direction:row}.cities{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.bestfor{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.hint{display:none}.map{height:380px}}
@media(min-width:900px){.hero{grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr;padding:2.5rem}.hero-art{display:block}.cities{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.bestfor{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.shops{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}